Laundry detergent sheets

These are the best inventions ever! They can be packed flat, no larger than a few sheets of paper, and they work just as well as the regular liquid detergent! I’d even use these at home, to help cut down on the production of plastic detergent bottles. There are quite a few brands available now, so it may take some experimentation to find your favorite.

Pack to survive 2-3 days in your carry on

Full time traveling with several hobbies and events means that I do not have the luxury of traveling carry-on only. And this summer of travel chaos and lost baggage fiasco has me wishing that I could. However, I always bring the things I CANNOT live without in my carry on, in the event that my bag takes more than a few days to return to me.

For example, if I am traveling to a competition, I make sure that I have what I need to compete. I can always buy toiletries or even a few basic clothes. Many things are replaceable. My bare minimum competition gear, and the comfort of a few personal items (clean underwear, toothbrush, etc.) are not, and therefore, they are with me at all times.

Use AirTags in checked luggage

Also considering the luggage chaos this summer, I have found that AirTags are really handy when you have checked luggage. I can check that my bag is on the plane with me before takeoff for some peace of mind, and I know exactly what country it is in when I land. I won’t be ditching the luggage AirTag ever again.

Bring a carabiner (or multiple)

As a climber, I have carabiners stashed everywhere. They’re handy for attaching waterbottles, wet swimsuits, hair ties, foam rollers, keys, and more to the outside of my bag for easy access. It’s useful to have, even if it’s not often used, and takes up almost no space or weight.

Along those same lines a sling is helpful as well to tie items to the carabiner. It can also double as a yoga strap or a clothesline.

Visit the local 7-11

Any time I visit another country, I make sure that I visit a 7-11 or the equivalent. In other countries, a 7-11 is an inexpensive convenience shop with takeaway meals and snacks where the locals eat. It’s a great way to experience the local culture, it’s cheap, and it’s very interesting to see the similarities and differences between countries. You can always find the local version of the country’s famous food in a 7-11, for a fraction of the price of a touristy restaurant.

Along those same lines, I also love going to grocery stores in foreign countries and finding new and exciting things to try!

Does anyone else do any of these? What are your unusual travel hacks?

Check out my other post on 10 Essentials I Never Travel Without!

Rakuten is great, because it offers cash back on purchases that you would make anyways. If you install the browser extension, it’ll remind you to activate your “Shopping Trip” when you visit a website and how much cash back you’ll receive. I use Rakuten for all my online shopping, including pet supplies, rental cars, hotel reservations, and toiletries.

Additionally, if you link your credit card to your account, you can get in-store cash back for some places as well.

Rakuten is super easy to use, and automatically pays you to PayPal every 3 months. No need to remember to redeem!

If, for whatever reason, you didn’t get the expected cash back added to your account, you just fill in a quick form online with your order details and Rakuten takes care of it almost immediately. It’s easy and seamless, which is a huge up-side.

If you use my Rakuten link, both you and I receive $30 for signing up and making a qualifying $30 purchase within 90 days. This is super easy if you were already going to order something online.

Another app and browser extension that I have installed is Ibotta. I like this one less, but it’s great to have this in conjunction with Rakuten so that I know I’m pretty much always getting cash back with any purchase. If Rakuten doesn’t offer cash back somewhere, then Ibotta might. Sign up Ibotta using my referral code “cvrqdah” for an extra $10!

Check out my other posts on money, frugal living, and saving for retirement as a nomad with an erratic paycheck!

I was there to jump off the famous Old Bridge, Stari Most, and loved spending my free time enjoying Turkish delights, wandering the cobblestone streets, and taking in the beautiful views. I was visiting Mostar in August, and the weather was perfect, but hot! Here are some tips for visiting Mostar.

Tips for visiting Mostar

Drink Bosnian coffee

Bosnian coffee is STRONG. It is brewed by adding boiling water to the coffee grounds in a beautifully ornate copper pot. The grounds are left in the pot as it’s served to you, so allow the coffee to settle in the cup to avoid drinking them. Coffee comes with sugar cubes and a delicious piece of Turkish Delight, and runs around 3 KM, or about 1.5 USD.

Peruse the market in Old Town

This market is beautiful, and has so much to look at and enjoy. The cobblestone streets are narrow, and full of people, so you have plenty of time to view the beautiful pieces on display. Also, there are delicious gelato stands everywhere for about 3 KM for a single cone.

Try to spot a local diving off the Old Bridge

There is a ton of local history diving off the famous Stari Most into the Neretva River, and the town is very proud of it. If you’re lucky, you might see one jump!

Probiotics are essential!

The water in Bosnia is not good for foreigners to drink, and food poisoning is common in this area. Buy bottled water or boil your water for safety, and be cognizant of the foods that you are eating, particularly the meats. The seafood is pretty good, and relatively safe. Taking quality probiotics a few days before you leave and throughout your trip is highly recommended.

Try diving yourself!

Because diving is such a key part of the community in Mostar, there is a tower built by the side of the Neretva river near the Old Bridge. This tower can be up to 15-17 meters tall, depending on the height of the water, but it is open for the public to enjoy. One thing to be aware of, is that the water is only about 4 meters deep when the water level is lower, and in general, jump within your limits!

Also regarding the water, do your best not to swallow any of the Neretva River, or you might be in for a long night over the toilet. Probiotics are your best bet for avoiding this situation.

Although I did not have a chance to go, there is also a Sky Tour that takes you outside the town to overlook the area, and I have heard that it is stunning and well worth it.

Have you visited Mostar before? Check out this other blog post about the history and visiting Mostar!

1: Pen

Always carry a working pen. Between entry and exit forms and physical notes, a pen is essential because there’s never one in a reasonable place when you really need it (I’m looking at you, immigration).

2: Water bottle

My water bottle is attached to my hip. I hate using single use plastic bottles, and my trusty Nalgene holds plenty of water for a couple of thirsty hours. Additionally, drinking plenty of water is a great way to beat jet lag and stay healthy during traveling.

I’ve recently discovered portable water filters too, so that I can purify and/or sterilize the tap water in sketchier areas, further decreasing my plastic use. But, as I have not used these for long, I can’t honestly put a filter on this list yet. But if you travel often, I recommend researching an option best for you!

3: Headphones

I love my AirPods Pro. Headphones don’t need much explanation, but I would recommend investing in good, quality headphones that are right for you. This doesn’t mean an expensive pair; it means the pair that works for you and your situation.

On another note, if you’re flying a lot and like to watch the movies on the plane, also always carry headphones with a jack, or get a AirFly.

4: Snacks

I get HANGRY when I haven’t eaten enough, so I always have snacks nearby so I’m prepared and don’t have to spend an arm and a leg at the airport for a banana.

Stasher bags are a great way to transport food without wasting plastic.

5: Satin/silk pillowcase

Satin or silk pillowcases are great to travel with. They weigh nothing and take up almost no space, they can cover a dubious looking pillow or cushion, and they can double as a laundry bag.

Satin pillowcases are helpful to reduce hair breakage and frizzies (hello, curly hair), and good for your face. You’re actually supposed to wash your pillowcase nearly every day (a bit unreasonable in my book), but whenever I do laundry of any kind, I toss it in. Bonus: it air dries in less than an hour!

6: Swimsuit

Ok, this is a bit personal, because I spend a lot of time in the water, but I still think it can apply to most people. Hear me out…

I always have a training suit with me, in case I happen upon a cliff to jump, or spontaneously find a pool to train or spa at. However, if these situations don’t apply to you, a bikini is versatile in many ways. The top can double as a sports bra or crop top, the bottom can double as underwear. Guys, the trunks can double as sports shorts. They can both be easily washed while you shower, and they dry quickly. They are great to wear hiking or waterfall searching. If you are camping or showering in a public area, they can be used if you’re not comfortable nude. See? Everyone should always carry one.

7: Paper copy of my passport

In the horrible event that you lose your passport, it is easier and faster to replace it at the embassy if you have a copy of it. Or so I’ve been told—I have not tested this theory and I hope never to do so. In the event of internet crashing and/or phone dying, I have a paper copy with me at all times, stored far away from my physical passport, and safely.

8: Small amount of local currency

Cash will almost always be accepted, so if phones go down, internet blows up, and you have nothing else to barter, some cash will ensure your temporary survival. Avoid converting cash at the airport for the best exchange rates. I usually carry enough for a taxi ride to my lodging, plus about a day’s worth of food.

9: ATM card (with reimbursable ATM fees)

This one should be obvious. It can be used in a pinch as a debit card or to take out additional local currency. Most of the time ATMS have the best exchange rates because there’s no middle man (currency exchange). I refuse to pay fees and waste money, so I have an ATM card that reimburses ATM fees (about $2-5 each transaction) and has no foreign transaction fees. There are several places that have these cards, but personally I have had cards from Fidelity and Charles Schwab

10: Foam Roller

As an athlete, I use this religiously. And unfortunately, as an athlete, this large and bulky item counts as an essential. I have tried to make do without the roller on a few occasions, and failed miserably. A foam roller is a must, to hammer out stiff and sore muscles from hours of planes, trains, and cars.

Are my travel essentials different to yours? Go to my Travel Page to see where I take all these essentials!

Here are my main and regular ways of staying in shape, utilized as available and as needed.

Functional Fitness

I love to lift, but I don’t lift weights for a living, so functional fitness is where my strength needs to be. I need to be able to move my body well and with ease. When I lift, I focus on explosive power, which means lifting with lighter weights, with quality, with speed, and with plenty of rest.

Basic strength/prehab

Prehab is just a fancy way of saying “injury prevention.” I need to make sure all my small and stabilizing muscles are ready to protect my spine and joints. When these are weak, injuries happen, and quickly. For a lot of people, shoulders and back are weak points. For me, it’s my knees. I predominately focus on shoulder and knee injury prevention, and a lot of core exercises to protect my back.

Core

Everything relies on a strong core. Without it, you won’t be able to move well, precisely, or with coordination. A strong core protects the back and hips from injury, as well as allows you to move your body with precision.

Rock Climbing/Bouldering

Climbing is actually a full-body workout. It does mainly target upper body strength, which is often where females are the weakest. It also assures that climbing a ladder or rope for a show, or climbing up cliffs for a competition will not be difficult. Climbing also involves a lot of core and precision movements. The developed grip strength means that I have plenty of extra endurance for hanging on to aerial apparatuses. Climbing is also a therapy for me, relaxing, and grounds me when I am feeling overwhelmed or stressed.

Hiking

Every person should spend a little time every day outdoors. Hiking is a fantastic way to explore the world’s natural beauty. I use hikes as my most hated exercise modality, which is…

Cardio–recovery, long days

Even though I HATE cardio, it’s important for a few reasons: 1) a good cardio base aids recovery. This is important for performing or competing multiple days in a row. I’ve done jobs where I performed for over a month without a day of rest. 2) A good cardio base means that little additional stressors will not fatigue the body as much. Cardio does not have to be long hours on the treadmill. It can be as simple as a brisk walk with the dog, enough to get the heart rate moderately elevated.

Crossfit

This is my favorite modality to stay in shape in the off season, as it targets most of my objectives. Lifting for strength and power, gymnastics movements for functional fitness, HIIT for cardio, and competitive atmosphere for motivation. However, Crossfit is often far too intense for me to sustain during competition season or while performing in shows.

The most important aspect of an exercise program is that it’s enjoyable and sustainable, as well as helps you meet your goals. If you are an average person, your goals will be very different than an elite athlete. Your program can be focused more on doing something enjoyable, rather than pushing through the more grueling, but necessary parts (ahem, cardio).

I believe that every single person has some form of exercise that they find enjoyable. It’s up to you to find yours.

It’s a leisurely ride around the large loop, so much faster, and you can pick and choose where to spend extra time, and ride quickly past the sights that you deem less interesting. You aren’t limited by the slow walking speed, a tour guide and other guests, or an expensive tuk tuk. Bonus: you get a nice workout in throughout the day as well! Bring plenty of water!

Angkor Wat is located in Angkor Archaeological Park just outside of Siam Reap, Cambodia. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage List, and is definitely a must-do in Siam Reap. Check out this article for all you need to know about visiting Angkor Archaeological Park.

Check out my Instagram posts below for temples that I found particularly interesting (in addition to the esteemed Angkor Wat, of course!).

How would you recommend visiting Angkor Archaeological Park? Have you cycled around the temples?

I love cycling around Asia. See my post on Biking Xi’An City Wall in China!

Due to our lack of available time and the amount of time I researched to ascend Hua Shan (the hard way, not by cable car), Garrison, Jeff, and I left for Hua Shan the night before, and found a hotel room so that we could leave early in the morning.  I’m glad we did, so that we had plenty of time for everything and were not rushed.

Waterfall in the Wuli Pass, near the base of the mountain

06:10

We left our hotel just before sunrise, eating a breakfast of fresh persimmons and sweet potato bread as we walked, to head towards the mountain.  After the entrance to the mountain, there is about an hour walk to the base of the mountain before you begin to ascend.  The walk to the base of the mountain is mostly just a stone pathway with an incline.  Once you reach the base, there are mostly stone steps and chain link handrails.  The first part is called the Wuli Pass, and it’s a lot of stairs, but they are very much like normal stairs.  As you get higher in the mountain, you start to see locks along the chains.  People place these locks on the chain links as a prayer for their family or as a symbol of everlasting love between couples.  Throughout the climb, there are various temples and concession stands (very expensive of course; imagine how those supplies got up there!).

These locks on the chain links are all over the mountain. They are a prayer for one’s family.

09:00

We had been climbing mostly steps for about three hours at this point. Jeff hilariously cried out “Cold feet alarm!” so Garrison and I decided that we needed to take a good break. Poor Jeff got roped into hiking with us instead of taking the cable car up the mountain, and we knew he was nervous about it.

We had a snack, including the Chinese version of granola bars (with a much less elegant name: compressed biscuits).  Soon after, we came upon our first set of steep and long stairs.  Of course we’ve already climbed A LOT of stairs, but looking up at this staircase, it seems impossible.  There were some writings on the rocks around as we walked, and Jeff loosely translated a couple of them as “If you can conquer Hua Shan, you can conquer anything” and “Point of return” (change your mind and go back).  Although there were very few people along this pass, we saw a guy who had to be in his 80s or maybe even 90s climbing the mountain with the help of (who I assume was) his son. Jeff saw that and said “If he can climb the mountain, then I can do it.” What a trooper.

Steep steps in the Jinsuo Pass. Not uncommon to see people crawling up them. Some steps were less than 6 inches wide.

Climbing the Sky Ladder, which went straight up. Hold on to the chains for dear life!

There’s also some normal wooden steps built to the side for the less adventuresome.

11:30

We got close to North Peak.  Looking out towards the city, you can definitely see the China haze.  One view was pretty cool: you can see the town below, a layer of haze, and then another mountain rising above it.  Because of the haze, the mountain looks like it’s floating. The actual peak is a little bit out of the way, and we would have to double back to return to the other peaks, so we opted out of going over to North Peak.  

Instead, we followed the signs for East Peak and we entered the Jinsuo Pass. The stairs start to get VERY narrow and VERY steep at this point, and you now have to use the chains to help climb the steps and keep your balance. It’s also not uncommon to see people crawling up the stairs on all fours. One narrow passage was less than a meter wide through a crack in the rocks, at more than a 45 degree angle upward, and the steps were between 4 and 8 inches wide. Parts of that passage I felt like I was climbing a ladder. There were probably around 200 steps in that passage.

Afterwards there were a couple of slightly wider passages (but no less steep), and then we came to a set of maybe 30 or so steps that went straight up vertically, called the Sky Ladder. Upon actually starting to climb it, however, the first part was actually overhanging very slightly.  It was very cool, and a bit terrifying, since if you happen to fall, it’s a steep bounce all the way down the mountain. These two passages were definitely the best part of the climb!

12:30

After crossing over Green Dragon Ridge, which is a long drop on either side, and plenty more steps, we FINALLY reached East Peak, our first peak of the mountain. It is 2096 meters in elevation and the second highest peak on Hua Shan. Six hours of climbing stairs and we can finally enjoy the view!  It is a perfect day for hiking; about 19 degrees Celsius, a slight breeze, and clear blue skies. The crowds start to pick up at this point.

Many people take the North Cable Car up, and tour all of the peaks, as opposed to hiking up. The East Peak is a popular place to watch the sun rise. A lot of hikers will climb the mountain in the night, and then watch the sun rise from East Peak. Others will climb the mountain, stay the night in a hotel at the top, and watch the sun rise.

13:00

We came upon a huge disappointment. The Plank Road in the Sky, the most dangerous part of Hua Shan, and where you have to rent a harness, was closed for construction. Garrison and I had both been really looking forward to this part, but we weren’t able to do it. So upset! We ran into some Brits who were on a 3 year world tour and talked to them for a while.

Walkway to the Plank Road in the Sky, which was closed. The Plank Road continues along the face of the cliff, just past the sign.

13:30

We reached South Peak! South Peak is the highest point of Hua Shan, with an elevation of 2155 meters.  The day was so beautiful and sunny, so we could see pretty far even with the China haze. It was clear that this is the most celebrated peak of Hua Shan, because the Chinese were fighting over picture time by the summit monument. We opted for a small corner next to the monument, and it was perfect. By the time we were done, there were a couple of Chinese waiting for our spot as well.

14:40

We reached West Peak. Due to the crowds, and the lack of change in scenery, we decided not to take the stone bridge over to the peak. We admired it from a distance, and then walked down a ways towards the West Cable Car. Along the way, we finally saw one of the mountain porters. Years ago, everything was hand carried up the mountain, but now I assume the cable cars are used as much as possible. Still, there are people who must carry provisions to where the cable cars can’t reach (a lot of places). This guy was very old (I’d guess no younger than 70, and he’s Chinese, so he very well may have been older), and he was carrying four large bags of something tied to a long stick balanced on his shoulder. As he walked, he was talking to himself, and Jeff said that he was talking to his waist and encouraging it not to give out. Pretty cool.

Ridge to West Peak. Too crowded!

14:50

We found the cable car, and the area around it is very crowded. This is the popular (and expensive) cable car, so a lot of people take this up the mountain and then tour around the various peaks. The cable car down costs 140 RMB for an adult (100 RMB for a student) and takes 23 minutes.  The cable car was just as cool as hiking up the mountain. It’s very smooth and quiet, and the height is dizzying. It descends very sharply, and you can see the whole mountain. Then you have to go up and over a peak before descending quickly again. The entire time you can see the whole mountain, and the best part was, we saw the parts of the mountain that we couldn’t see on the way up. So beautiful.

15:15

Took a cab (30 RMB) to the train station and bought a ticket home.  Since our train didn’t leave until 6:40, we grabbed dinner at a barbecue outside the station.

19:30

From the Xi’An North Railway Station, we had to take a cab back to our dorms.  We were all so dead by this point, and the last hour or two before you can be home is the absolute worst.

20:30

Home at last.  Shower and sleep!!!  Incredible day off with absolutely beautiful scenery and I’m tired!!!

Hua Shan: Day 1

So, after a lot of planning and organization, I went after work with two friends, Garrison, and our Chinese friend Jeff. We planned to hike Hua Shan on our day off. Originally, more people were coming as well. They wanted to ride the cable car up, so Jeff could go with them while Garrison and I hiked.  However, everyone else backed out, so Jeff was semi-forced into having to climb it with us.

Here’s how the first day of our adventure went…

4:55p

Our last show for the day finishes.  I book it back to my dorm room to shower and finish packing up my bag.

5:30p

Garrison, Jeff, and I leave for Xi’An.  One of our regular drivers takes us, but it takes an extra long time to get into the city due to traffic congestion. Fortunately we left plenty of buffer time.

6:30p

We arrive at the Xi’An North Railway Station and pick up our train tickets, which Jeff has ordered for us online (perks of having a Chinese friend!). Our tickets cost 35 RMB each for the fast train and you need your passport to pick the tickets up and to board the train. The fast train takes 30 minutes to the Hua Shan station. It takes 1.5-2 hours by bus or slow train. The fast train was amazing. It’s very quiet and smooth, and we didn’t even realize that we had accelerated. Unfortunately, sun had already set, because it would have been cool to see the town whizzing by.  We were definitely going fast.

7:30p

Arrive at the Hua Shan Railway Station. We took a cab to the town at the foot of the mountain, Huayin, and found a hotel. It was grungy and dirty and the beds were not much softer than the floor, but it was a place to crash for a short night. The bathroom smelled terrible, the window was broken, and there were hairballs all over the floor. 120 RMB for the night was way too expensive for the quality that we had.  

We wandered off in search of food as well, but didn’t find much that looked any good. There are vendors all along the street selling the exact same food, and the same merchandise: warm coats, gloves, hats, backpacks, and walking sticks.  

Finally we settled for eating at our hotel, which was by far the worst meal we’ve had in Xi’An. The guy who ran the hotel also gave us a quick explanation of the Hua Shan map, which was nice, but Jeff said that he was very pompous about everything. One good bit of information that he gave was that the hike will take about 9 hours, so I insisted that we leave between 6 and 6:30am in the morning.

10:30p

Lights out.

Hiking Hua Shan Day 2: Climbing the Mountain

As someone who loves their morning cup of coffee, I’m always looking for the easiest and lightest way to make the best cup at home. Over the years of travel, I have come to prefer to carry some sort of coffee maker with me, because I’ve discovered that many accommodations, particularly outside of the US, do not have coffee as a standard amenity.

Usability

The Sea To Summit X-Brew is a simple, lightweight drip coffee maker which requires no additional filter. There is a fine mesh metal filter that secures to the bottom of the dripper.

To use, expand the X-Brew, place it on top of a cup, add normal drip coffee grounds, and pour hot water over the top.

This drip filter is super easy to use. It has minimal parts and the reusable filter comes out for easy cleaning. The silicone can be washed with soap and water, although the green color does pick up a slight stain from the coffee grounds.

The coffee is high-quality of a drip brew. One problem with using the metal filter, however, is that some of the fine grounds are able to make their way into the cup. There are two solutions to this: either don’t drink the final dregs of the coffee, or add a paper filter to the X-Brew.

Packability

The X-Brew collapses to a small round disc when packing or for storage. It’s super light and small, so it can be tucked away anywhere and is ready to be used in seconds. My only reservation with packing is that if the drip is jostled around too much, I’m afraid that the filter piece could be bent or pierced. For that reason, I’ve been packing the X-Brew with some minor protection around it.

One problem that I came across, is that sometimes when the X-Brew is collapsed, the filter likes to pop out if you aren’t collapsing the silicone exactly straight. This was a bit frustrating, as the filter takes some effort to put back in. For this reason, I recommend storing the X-Brew collapsed whenever it is not in use, so that it collapses smoothly.

Durability

There’s no reason that this coffee dripper should ever stop working, unless the metal filter should break. If that’s the case, you have the option to use paper filters or buy a reusable fabric filter to replace it. Sea to Summit does not have a replacement filter.

I’ve been using this filter daily (and sometimes multiple daily…) for over two months now, and it’s still as good as new, minus some discoloration on the silicone from the coffee grounds. On most days I just dump the grounds and rinse out the dripper. However, I deep clean the X-Brew a couple times a month by removing the mesh filter and getting out the little bits of coffee silt. This is probably overkill. Sometimes the filter is pretty tough to get back in to the bottom of the drip; however, this also means that it should not fall out unnecessarily either.

Specifications

• Designed for backpacking
• Made of food grade silicone/nylon/stainless steel
• 2-cup / 480 milliliter capacity
• 4 ounces
• 4.3 x 0.8 inches / 110 x 20 mm
• Fits inside X-Kettle by Sea To Summit

Overall, I highly recommend the Sea To Summit X-Brew as a minimalistic, inexpensive way to travel with constant access to coffee. It takes up hardly any space in your bag, and is easy to clean. The parts should last a long time and, most importantly, it makes a great cup of coffee!

Because of our difficulties trying to find the bus to the Terracotta Warriors, we had a taxi driver drop us off directly at the Xi’An Railway Station. This is where you can catch a bus to the Terracotta Warriors, and it also makes a couple of stops in Lintong along the way. Way easier. This time, we also took Tourist Bus #5 (Bus 306), and that was a much better experience as well.

It’s really obvious when to get off the bus at Lintong. Theres a giant mountain in the background all of a sudden! We got off the bus, grabbed a bite to eat, and then we set off in search of the base of the mountain. We tried to follow the cable car to the bottom, and I had fun running around asking a bunch of locals where Li Shan was.

Scammed!!!

We were definitely walking the wrong way, because we came to a tiny little village.  A guy in a car was insistently talking to us in Chinese and offering us a ride. After a while, we gave in, because it was clear that we weren’t getting anywhere closer to the mountain. We figured, for 20 RMB, we could save ourself the hassle. He took us up the back of the mountain a ways and we found the ticket office. He stayed with us after we bought tickets, and drove up a little further.

We stopped in front of a temple looking building, and the driver hurried us through it, and pointed out interesting things. We kept trying to tell him (with the use of my translator app) that we wanted to go to the base of the mountain and walk up it. He kept writing to us in Chinese back, and obviously we couldn’t understand what he was saying, but that was always his response, even after telling him that we don’t understand.

Finally, he took us to a little set of stairs behind the temple-looking place, and pointed up. Since there were no people in sight, and it was clearly a back way. We were not convinced that this was the “base” of the mountain and the way that we wanted to go. On top of that, he kept wanting to come with us. Okay, sometimes Chinese people like to be helpful and walk you to where you’re going. But we were starting to get a bad vibe, so we called our Chinese friend for help.

I looked at our tickets and they said “Huaqing Palace” but not “Li Shan.” Our Chinese friend on the phone talked to the guy and reported back to us: the driver wanted 20 RMB each (not total) for the ride all the way up the mountain (we wanted to go to the base, not up).

The stairs that he brought us to started in the middle of the mountain and went up. He also wanted 100 RMB for being our “tour guide” and giving us “explanations.” At this point, we were done with him. Garrison handed him the 20 that we thought we were paying him, and coldly said “bai bai.” And walked off.

Start over. We walked to the front of the temple and went through at our own pace. Much better. We even bought some incense to burn. It was a very pretty temple, small, and no English, so I have no idea what temple it was, or what religion. Afterwards, we went up the steps behind the temple and climbed for a while.

Hiking Li Shan

There are points of significance all the way up the mountain, so it wasn’t long before we came across Laomu Temple. There was a little English signage, but the temple was small and no one was taking pictures. The view was pretty good though, although it was hazy. The sign in front of the Laomu Temple read:

“The Laomu Temple, built to honor and respect Nuwa, is located on the second peak of the Xixiu Ridge of Lishan Mountain.  Legend has it that Nuwa, the creator goddess, is a famous female leader incorporated with unusual powers.  Once a serious disaster took place in nature, Ensued from it, the heaven collapsed, the earth was sunken, and common people vanished.  It is Nuwa who repaired the cracks in the heaven with melted five colored rocks she made with the technique of alchemy and used clay to recreate humans of her own appearance.  Thereafter, human beings come into existence, and Nuwa is honored as one of the three creator gods.  Later generations address her respectfully as “Lishan Laomu” and built a Nuwa Temple to commemorate her.”

Near to Laomu Temple was Shangshan Lake.  I’d call it an ugly pond, and it did not look like anything was capable of living in such a green and swampy looking man-made body of water.

“The name Shangshan develops from Laozi’s philosophy that nothing in the world is softer and weaker than water.  Yet nothing is better at attacking the hard and strong than water.  There is no substitute for it.  Similarly, the earth in its devotion carries all things, good and evil, without exception.  In the same way the superior man gives to his character breadth, purity, and sustaining power, so that he is able both to support and to bear with people and things.”

We finally found a set of stairs beyond Shangshan Lake that looked much more like what I would have expected. There were several Chinese tourists huffing and puffing up the stairs (they are steep and long), including quite a few women in high heels! We hiked up for a while, and each bought a peach from a vendor on the mountain.

Finally, we came to the Beacon Tower, which was used to send signals to soldiers in the Western Zhou Dynasty: smoke in the day, and flames at night. There is a story that King You once set fire to the Beacon Tower to try to make his concubine Baosi smile, which worked, but then when Li Shan was attacked and the Beacon Tower was lit, no one came to help. King You was killed, and Baosi was taken away, leading to the Chinese idiom “Misuse of Beacon Tower fire only fool the vassals.” The views from the top of the Beacon Tower were spectacular, but I wish it was less hazy. Supposedly Beacon Tower is the highest elevation on Li Shan, at 1,302 meters above sea level.

We continued down the stairs where we should have climbed up, hoping to hit all the different parts of the mountain. Surprisingly, there were no people anywhere beyond the Beacon Tower, so it was very peaceful and quiet, save for the occasional car horn from the city below. Also surprising, we can cover a lot of ground along the mountain in a very short period of time.

We went from the Beacon Tower to the Sunset Pavilion in less than half an hour. The Sunset Pavilion is supposed to be THE place the watch the sun set over Xi’An. The colors and the lighting over the mountain is supposed to be just stunning. Further along the mountain, we found a couple more tiny temples, a neat little rock alcove, and finally, the base of the mountain, indicated by plenty of tourists and selfie sticks.

On the plus side, we did avoid paying to climb the mountain (supposed to be 70 RMB, minus the student discount) since we went up the back way. The hilarious part was, we walked out the area in front of the base of the mountain, and immediately in front of us was the giant statue where the bus dropped us off.  Oops.